Post by www.tokiohotelrocks.com
Brothers Kaulitz started as emo, and became style icons. Bill is wearing skinny leather pants, high boots, and goth make-up. His twin brother Tom – rapper in oversized pants. Both are in great demands from designers.
Since the times when George Sand started to wear men’s pants and Marlene Dietrich – tailcoat, cross-dressing is not leaving women’s fashion. Black color also: we owe that to two queens, Queen Victoria of United Kingdom and fashionable Coco Chanel. In their times, it was enough to wear a tie or little black dress, to be talked about. Now, you can’t surprise anyone by wearing double-breasted suit on the top of a naked body or gothic leather bustier: these pieces, or something similar, are in almost every designers collections nowadays.
German band Tokio Hotel went through the same in music. Androgynous complexion, eyeliner, manicure, super tight leather pants, heels – “So sweet!”- Fans were saying about Bill Kaulitz, pretty front man. But songs with such names as “Scream/Schrei”, “Rescue me/Rette Mich”, “Final Day/Der Letzte Tag” and just as much saying lyrics proved: that it is not another pretty pop-teenager in front of us, but a real rocker. Being just 12 years old, Bill founded the band “Devilish”. Tom, Bill’s identical twin brother, is finishing this mix-up. He is wearing dreads, piercings, earings-tonnels, hip-hop jeans and sneakers of real “brother/dude” (in the fall Tom became a new face of Reebok) – but he is not singing Rap in Tokio Hotel, but playing guitar solos deserving of Keith Richards.
Emo, goth, punk – nowadays teenagers don’t care (and some musical critics either), how to call the singers-introverts, whose soul is always in a pain, a heart is crying, and they themselves are waiting (looking for) for the beautiful death. The Name is not important in new millennium, the Beautiful name is important. And the outfit.
From what moment can we talk about Goth generation? Historians would say from Roman Empire: Goths – eastern-German tribe defeated Rome as we all know from the school history books (since then till our time Goths(tribe) is synonym for vandalism and barbarianism). Art critics will tell you about gothic architecture, which as we all know is not about buildings made of black brick. Literary critics will remember about gothic novels, prototypes of horror stories and sagas about vampires, which were born in Great Britain at the end of XVIII century, mystery thriller novels by Edgar Poe, Charles Baudelaire with his “The Flowers of Evil”. Sentimental scary stories of Tim Barton, German expressionism, mystical Hitchcock and the same vampire’s sagas will be the choice for example of gothic in movies by movie geeks.
But Gothic in music and fashion– is something else. In early 80s, band Rites of Spring walked on the hard-core-punk-stage with soul-tugging outpourings in the fashion of folk style of 70s. In the February of 1981, Steve Keaton, author for British rock magazine “Sounds” called the article – The Face of Punk Gothique – and since then bands like Fall out Boys, Joy Division, Sunny Day Real Estate, Panic! At Disco, My Chemical Romance, The Cure could be included in Goth culture. As it turned out, songs about depression, suicide and other stupidities for very impressionable teenagers played with hysterical guitar riffs can make as much money as noble ballads of singers with perfect hairs. And even more then upbeat songs of the quartet from Liverpool. Of course, fashion couldn’t miss on this.
Actually, not once, melancholic romanticism helped designers. We can start from the cult of mourning/grief in the times of Victorians fashion and finish with the creations of Anna Sui, Rodarte, Alexander MacQueen, Gareth Pugh – the masters of making black clouds with thorns from a fabric – occultism, graves, gravestones and other attributes of gothic were always easy to sell.
Our times don’t leg behind: “gothic Lolitas” are pushing aside Tokio “princesses”, teenage girls with wearing mini-skirts with “mournig” laces, with purses in the form of crucifixion, bloody lipsticks and smokey eyes. Btw, the guitarist of legendary japanese gothic-bands Malice Mizer and Moi dix Mois is the founder of the most important brand for the wardrobes of “gothic Lollitas”.
Karl Lagerfeld, big fan of black, from eye glasses to heeled boots, contributed to the his own brand with the most gloomy (if looking at the color of the leather) collection of the season. And as Givenchy and Balmain think, pants can not be too tight, too leather or too black.
From being Master of marginal and pubertal minds, Gothic became mainstream – just like the guys from Tokio Hotel. (I can’t translate next sentence word to word, but I think they mean that TH started from emo songs and continue now with very successful, commercial sound). Their third album Humanoid was released a year ago, with track like “Pain of Love”, “Love and Death” and “Dark Side of The Sun” (the names of songs are the same but the sound is not of boys-cryers, but of rockers), more then 400 000 CDs were sold, and around 6 millions since the beginning of their carrier. In September 2009, Karl Lagerfeld picked Bill for the photoshoot for the anniversary of Vogue Germany and said that Bill Kaulitz – “new type of german man, super star and style icon”.
Next, GQ put him on the list of the best dressed men (yes-yes) for his “passion to change and to try new things”. And now Bill is showing women’s fashion for Vogue. Do you still laughing about his black pants and manicure?